How to sew a jacket?

If you are interested in the theme of sewing and sewing, then in this article you will read about how to sew a jacket. And also learn the nuances of the pattern and tailoring of female and male models of the jacket.

This article describes in detail ways how to sew a jacket of female and male cut. In addition, it shows the stages of construction patterns and the process of processing details of the jacket.

Your jacket will be determined by fourcomponents is your vision of what jacket should be and your preferences in the choice of fabrics, their color, composition, density. And also cut which is chosen from three basic styles of cuts - English, Italian, American - each of which is historically connected with the country, but modern tailors can successfully combine all three styles in one cut. And the fourth quality is the degree of fit to the body. Therefore, before you sew a jacket, you need to confirm these qualities.

Materials for a jacket

To sew a jacket, you will need material fortop, lining fabric, two types of glue material, a small piece of sintepon, shoulder pads, buttons, sewing thread. And, of course, a sewing machine. But the overlock, on the contrary, will not be needed, because the sections will not be processed. For a jacket choose a woolen slightly puffed fabric. Due to the presence of a pile, a significant circumstance will be the direction of cutting the parts. When deciding how to sew a jacket with your own hands, you need to choose in which direction the fabric has a more beautiful color and shine. And lay out the details of the pattern on the fabric in the same direction.

Before you sew a jacket, you need to preparethe cloth. The fabric before cutting should be prodekatirovat, in order to avoid shrinkage of the finished product. Materia for a jacket is better decaffrated with an iron so that the fabric does not fade. After, you need to lay the fabric in one layer face down on the ironing board, and iron iron through a damp cloth with slow movements. If the material is synthetic or knitted, then it is not necessary to decapitate the jacket. As a backing fabric, it is better to use 100% viscose. It must also be proclaimed. To do this, soak the tissue in warm water for about half an hour - an hour, and after drying and ironing.

If the lining is synthetic, then it can also not be decapitated.

A cut of a man's jacket

How to sew a man's jacket is indistinguishable from how to sew a female. The sewing technology is similar, but with minor changes and additions.

After cutting the fabric, snares are placed andThe side gaskets are processed, darts are made in the gasket from above. Simultaneously with a liner from a costume fabric, a 28 cm long plate with a transverse arrangement of threads is cut out.
The plate is located along theso that it covers the entire area of the breast. The edge of the plate should be 2 cm from the folding line of the lapel, from the shoulder seam at a distance of 8 cm. From the armhole line - at a distance of 3-4 cm, and from the side line of the lining - at a distance of 6 cm. On the shelves, on a chalk line.
When sewing darts under the seam are placedstripes from the calico by the length of the filament, similar to the length of the dart and 1.5 cm in width. Then they are ironed - the main fabric is pressed in one direction, the other is the stitched strip.
A shelf with mating darts is laid out onthe joints are moistened and pressed together until completely adhering. In the ends of the darts, at the end of the seam it is necessary to iron the convexity well. The shelves are usually handled separately.
Further, a portion of the shelf is processed, whichis located at a distance from the lapel to the bottom, pulling it over the level of the pocket. The shelves need to be disconnected, and each of the convex part of the chest should be laid on the plane of the pad. Then they straighten and give the final form of the bulge of the chest.
The correctness of the position of the shelves is determined byline half-slice. In the event that the fold line is straight, then the ironing is done correctly. This is determined by the edge lines of the bead and the lapels, if there the edge sections of the bead and the shelves are equal to each other.
On the prepared side gasketThe upper part of the upper part is placed face up. Half backs are folded so that the front sides of the jacket are inside. Straightened and swept away by the silks smoothly, with stitches of 1 cm.
The backrest seam is bent to one side,so that the left side of the back is bent and swept over the top of the back. After preparing the shelf with the finished side gasket, you can sweep all the details of the jacket.

The cut of a woman's jacket

So, now we are making a woman's jacket.

To do this, fold the main fabric with the sides facing each other by folding the share thread. First, large parts are laid, and then small ones.
Mink the allowances for seams. Allowances for darts, reliefs, armholes, hoses of sleeves are 1.5 cm. Side, seams of sleeves, shoulder, middle seam of backrest - allowances 2.
Please note, before sewing a jacketfemale, you need to provide an average seam on the back. Since it is on this seam that the fabric is taken and manufactured for a good fit of the back. Throat, flaps, edge of the bead, leaf, collar - allowance is made 1 cm. The allowance for the hem of the bottom of the jacket and sleeves should be made 3-4 cm.
On the front side of the middle part of the shelfthe inflection lines and the middle of the lapels are transferred. You can do this by sweeping contrasting threads. Cuttings on the allowances are transferred from the patterns of control points.
Before sweeping, you need to do a tightening of the fronthalf sleeves. To perform this operation, both parts must be folded inwards and put on the ironing board. It is good to moisten the parts about 5-6 cm from the top edge. While holding the middle of the sleeve cut between the arrows with your left hand, press the parts with a hot iron. You must forcefully pull them in the direction of the arrow. From this side, you need to do a pull in the direction of the right arrow.
After that, the parts are turned on the opposite side, and the process is repeated, pulling the remaining part of the cut of this part. The cut of the part changed the shape - from the concave cut it became more convex.
It is necessary to sweep away the details of the jacket for fitting,performing bows at the beginning of the seams. Stitches need to be done not very long. To fix the planting, it is necessary to sew a second line in this section. Be sure to sweep the right sleeve and collar.

You can also sew a custom-made jacket. After all, whatever one may say, but to make a suit on order is more solid than to buy in a boutique of a famous designer. Sitting it will be better and will suit you both in size and style. And how much it costs to sew a jacket at times cheaper than many trend things. The average cost of a costume will cost you 20 000 - 40 000 rubles. The jacket can be ordered separately and bundled.