On the eve of March 8, literary critic GalinaYuzefovich made a festive menu, focusing on Soviet gastronomic traditions. According to the recipes of Tatiana Tolstoy and Natalia Bragina, Peter Weil and Alexander Genis, she suggests preparing: "Mimosa", jellied tongue, fresh cabbage salad, white fish stewed with cucumber pickle and vegetables (for hot) and a custard with cream (for dessert ).

March 8 (unlike, say, on February 23) is alwaysit was a day off, and therefore assumed a special, specifically Soviet, type of festive feast. The hostess took out jars and sachets from the granaries, and then got up half a day to the stove to create something special - beautiful, refined and certainly "tender" (if you believe Tatyana Tolstoy, it was "tenderness", achieved through purchasing mayonnaise, and was the main a trend of Soviet cooking). Then this "special" was laid out on crystal salad bowls and ceremonial dishes (in intelligent families - irrigation Baltic ceramics or grandmother's Kuznetsov porcelain, in the nomenklatura elite - gedeerovsky service with Madonnas, in all others - Lomonosov porcelain), and a feast began. Toasts "for lovely ladies", glasses on a thin leg, rowan on cognac, cold meat, mimosa salad, biscuit cake, chocolate sweets "Assorti" (they were brought as a gift to the hostess by guests), boots and fur hats in the hall, tea from the service "Cobalt grid", how to forget this? ..

This year we decided to support the tradition andturn to the most authoritative sources in the field of Soviet gastronomic traditions. In our today's review - nostalgic menu a la Soviet Union, but, as Elena Molokhovets would say, a little "in a different manner" - taking into account modern requirements and current trends.

Menu

Cold starters:

  • Mimosa salad"
  • Fluid language
  • Fresh cabbage salad

Hot:

  • White fish stewed with cucumber pickle and vegetables

Dessert:

  • Brewed cake with cream

Mimosa salad"

Mimosa salad

The eighth of March without the "mimosa" - that the New Year without Olivier

Source: Tatiana Tolstaya. Light worlds. M .: Edited by Elena Shubina, 2014

Tatiana Tolstaya writes about food not as often asI would like to, but it makes it definitely better than all the people who write today in Russian. Even in the phantasmagoric novel Kys, the dubious "cockchafer of the mousetrap" (the greatest delicacy of the inhabitants of the post-apocalyptic world) was described in such a way that involuntarily caused the reader increased salivation. When it comes to things that are more pragmatic and close (there are always one or two notes about food in every next collection of the writer), Tolstoy is not at all equal: only she is capable of accidentally mentioning a salted cucumber to create an agiotage in Moscow markets or generate a holivar per thousand comments deceptively innocent text about the nationality of borsch (with examples and recipes, of course). In a word, it is immensely a pity that Tatiana Nikitichna does not write gastronomic essays around the clock - but the more valuable those that are still available. And among them is a short essay about the writer Yuri Trifonov and the fish of the saury (it was from there that we borrowed the recipe for "mimosa" for our current review) - the real pearl of the genre.

Quote: "These are all canned goods, coupons for marshmallows, queues with children, dreams not to be in oil, but in your own juice, in a cold-bus-from-metro-to-district, will there be enough cheese, and what are you putting, sachets , stirring over the gas - all this era, sinking in mayonnaise tenderness, in the twilight twilight, my youth, how will I hate it? - no way, this is my life, I lived it. Only "Mimosa" I hate, for everything, for everything, let him answer for everything. Someone must answer. "

Recipe:

  • 1 can of canned fish (saury or pink salmon in its own juice)
  • 1 apple
  • 1 onion
  • 1 large carrot and / or potato
  • 100 g of cheese (tilsiter, emmentaler, Russian, Dutch, etc.)

For mayonnaise:

  • 1 egg yolk
  • mustard
  • salt
  • sugar
  • odorless vegetable oil
  • olive oil
  • lemon juice

Eggs boil hard, separate the proteins from the yolks. Proteins grate on a large grater, yolks - on the smallest. Potatoes (if desired, it can be replaced or supplemented with carrots) cook in a uniform, cool, clean and also grate on a large grater. With canned fish, drain liquid, cleanse from bones and skin and mash with a fork. Apple and cheese grate. The onion is finely chopped and scalded with boiling water - so it will be less bitter.

Prepare a homemade mayonnaise: for this yolk mix with a teaspoon of mustard, a teaspoon of sugar (with a slide) and two-thirds of a teaspoon of salt. Start to add oil (it is best to take two thirds odorless and one third olive extra virgin), while stirring the whisk - first a few drops, gradually increasing the volume. When the mayonnaise becomes thick and dense, add lemon juice to taste and stir again. Put two or three tablespoons into a separate bowl - this part you will apply to the tongue. For "mimosa" mayonnaise should be liquid, so it will have to be diluted: pour 1-2 tablespoons of water of room temperature into mayonnaise and gently mix.

When all the ingredients are prepared, you canproceed with the assembly. Salad spread on the serving dish layers, promazyvaya each layer of mayonnaise. Below the fish, then egg white, potatoes, apple, cheese, etc. - until the food runs out. At the very top should be a grated yolk - it will give the salad a resemblance to the flowers of a mimosa. Keep in mind - the salad is quickly winded, so it's best to shove the dish with the "mimosa" in a bag and put in the fridge for 2-3 hours before serving to better soaked.

Fluid language

jellied tongue

Gentle and more refined alternative to chill

Source: Peter Weil, Alexander Genis. Russian cuisine in exile. Moscow: Azbuka-Attikus, Kolibri, 2007

Peter Vail and Alexander Genis undeniablybelongs to the honor of discovery: it was their efforts in the 1990's on our soil that began and sprouted culinary essays. All-Russian understanding that food is not only a specific recipe written in the form of a strict imperative, but also a topic for cultural conversation - the merit of Weill and Genis. The tradition of table talk, brought by them from their second overseas homeland (for many years writers lived in emigration in New York), most clearly manifested itself in the collection "Russian cuisine in exile." This book is a kind of alternative history of Russian cuisine, an attempt to imagine what it would be like if everything had turned out differently - and Russian cuisine developed throughout the 20th century in a broad world context, and not in a dull Soviet reservation.

Recipe:

  • 1 cow's tongue (1.2 - 1.5 kg)
  • 2 large carrots
  • 2 stalks of celery
  • 1 onion
  • 1 root of parsley
  • Bay leaf
  • for 4-5 peas of black and sweet pepper
  • 1 glass of white dry wine
  • gelatin

Cut off excess fat from the tongue, put in a pantogether with vegetables and spices, pour water (it should cover the tongue at 8-10 cm), put on a fire and bring to a boil. Carefully remove the formed foam, reduce the heat, salt, loosely cover and cook for about an hour and a half (the tongue should become soft enough that the plug would enter into it without effort). Remove the tongue, rinse it under cold water, peel it from the outer cover (it should be removed easily - like peel with mandarin), cut into slices about a centimeter thick and beautifully arrange on a deep dish. Decorate with slices of boiled carrots and parsley sprigs. Broth through the double layer of gauze, add a glass of white wine, bring to a boil and boil for 3-5 minutes to make the alcohol evaporated. Check for salt and, if necessary, saline. Mix the broth with gelatin (following the instructions on the package) and pour the resulting mixture into a dish with tongue. The jellied tongue should stand in the refrigerator for at least four hours, and serve it best with horseradish, mustard or homemade mayonnaise.

Fresh cabbage salad

salad

In our menu, he is responsible for the "fresh note"

Source: Anna Pavlovskaya. An edible story of my family. М .: Word / Slovo, 2013

The main words that come to mind inthe process of reading the book of Anna Pavlovskaya - "charm" and "artlessness." "Edible history of my family" - this is indeed the history of the family (roots - peasants, the crown - the Moscow humanitarian intelligentsia), written with a touching simplicity. Family drinking habits (there is strawberry jam "without everything" or the manner of pronouncing the word "mashed potatoes", softening both consonants) grow into specific recipes ("this salad appeared not so long ago, twenty years ago, and became quite fashionable ..." - this is about " mimosa ", of course), and from there they turn back - to the relationship of the pope and grandmother, to the broken road to Tarusa, to the snow-white friable potatoes, to the simple wooden dacha that Grandfather built himself ... When it comes to real living people, tactlessly, and t m not less than Anna Pavlovskaya - a remarkable type of intelligent Soviet woman, fine, thrifty, tired, naive, not very sophisticated in matters of cooking, but unexpectedly exhibiting a very deep understanding of its fundamental (and not only its) laws. A wonderful, gentle, comforting reading - and not only for those who like to read about food.

Quote: "I remember one day my aunt Seda (on the maternal line) argued and my mother-in-law about cooking chicken broth. They argued with the passion of independent, energetic women, one of whom was a first-class mistress, and the second - a nutritionist. The basic question was that they put onions or carrots during cooking chicken broth. Both expressed confidence in the possibility of only one option. They turned to me as an independent judge. And they were terribly disappointed when I said that I put both. Both considered this an attempt at a compromise and an unwillingness to quarrel. "

Recipe:

  • 1 small head of cabbage
  • 2 cucumber
  • 3 tomatoes
  • greens (parsley, dill, coriander)

For refueling:

  • scented sunflower oil
  • lemon juice (or apple cider vinegar)
  • clove of garlic
  • salt
  • sugar

Cabbage thinly chop, sprinkle with salt andsugar and as you remember with your hands, then drain the excess juice. Cut cucumbers into thin cubes, tomatoes - small cubes, chop the greens. Tooth clove garlic in a mortar with a small amount of salt, mix with butter and lemon juice or vinegar. Season the salad, stir and let stand for 30-40 minutes.

White stewed fish with cucumber pickle and vegetables

white fish

National color with a Soviet accent

Source: Natalia Bragina's Culinary Collection. M: New literary review, 2001

Natalia Bragina, an artist from her youth, often visitedgood Moscow houses with rich culinary traditions and traditions, these ingeniously imbibed. Her book is on the one hand memoirs about people, enriched her with new recipes and gastronomic impressions, and on the other hand - a grandiose, multi-layered and many-year collection of recipes. Something obviously got into the meeting of Bragina from the book of Elena Molokhovets (from here all these "take half a pound" or "put on the ice"), something got from acquaintances (then to the recipe as a kind of homage is added a short note about its author - occasionally famous, more often unknown), some dishes the author created independently. Very many recipes combine the Spartan facet of Soviet cooking with a noble kitchen profile of the ancient, pre-revolutionary. The recipe for simple and affordable white fish in an elegantly old-fashioned sauce based on cucumber pickle is one of them.

Quote: "The action in which I take the feasible participation, resembles a complex surgical operation with a slight touch of shamanism. The sequence of actions is brought to the unconditional change of seasons. Almost imperceptible movements of the artist's hands create the illusion of lack of action. However, in front of eyes grow carrot and onion slides, planed perfectly even and thin plates. Gradually becoming more complex scales of smells reaches the highest point by the moment of "domalage", when pilaf is almost ready and should only reach the condition. The expectants are exhausted, and the cooking them, until the organs of his feelings tell him: "Done."

Recipe:

  • 1.5 kg of white sea fish (cod, sea bass, catfish)
  • 1.2 L cucumber brine
  • 1 glass of white dry wine
  • 1 parsley root
  • 1 small celery root
  • 2-3 peas of sweet and black pepper
  • pinch of grated nutmeg

For sauce:

  • 1 tablespoon flour
  • 30 g of butter

Celery and parsley root slice thin,almost transparent slices and lay out the bottom of the saucepan or fireproof form. Above them, put the fish cut into portions, and spices. Brine the mixture with white wine, bring to a boil and boil for 3-5 minutes. Fill the fish with hot broth, cover with a lid and simmer for 25-30 minutes on low heat. With the finished fish, pour the broth and cook on its basis sauce: for this, in a small saucepan, fry a tablespoon of flour with butter until golden and stir constantly, pour a thin stream of broth - the consistency of the resulting sauce should resemble liquid sour cream. On the serving dish lay boiled rice (or boiled potatoes), on top of it fish, pour sauce, sprinkle finely chopped parsley and bring it to the table.

Brewed cake with cream and chocolate icing

cake

If in the childhood you had to try a home eclair, he was just like that

Source: The book is about tasty and healthy food. Moscow: Pishchepromizdat, 1952

Stalin-mikoyanovskaya "The book is about delicious andhealthy food "(the first edition was published in 1939) is an entire epoch of Russian history, a visible evidence of the so-called" Great Deal ", an unspoken collusion between the authorities and the population, under which the authorities received carte blanche for terror, and the population - some household indulgence and indulgence. The first edition, which was the result of Anastas Mikoyan's trip to the US, utilitarianism and simplicity of design is similar to American cookbooks of that time. However, by the beginning of the 1950s, "The Book of Delicious and Healthy Food" flourishes with the most perfect baroque - plush tablecloths with brushes, crystal, gilding and other signs of the "cultural way of life" proclaimed by the party. If we talk about the recipes themselves, they create the impression of a parallel reality: just about such an imaginary world of Soviet abundance, in which sausages, pelmeni and canned green peas do not just exist, but are easily accessible, people who nostalgic for the USSR dream. In short, the story is not so much reality as an unrealizable ideal - a culinary veil-morgan in an embossed brown cover.

Quote: "Not only in our country, but also far beyond its borders, the name of Ivan Vladimirovich Michurin, an outstanding Soviet scientist, great transformer of nature, has created hundreds of new fine varieties of fruits and berries."

Recipe:

  • 1 cup of flour
  • 125 g of butter
  • 4-5 eggs
  • 1 glass of water
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

For cream:

  • 3 large yolks
  • 25 g of corn or rice starch
  • 250 ml of milk
  • 70 g of sugar
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 250 ml cold whipping cream
  • 2 tbsp. l. powdered sugar

For glaze:

  • 100 g of bitter chocolate
  • 50 ml of creamy cream
  • 30 g of butter

Pour a glass of water into the pan, addCut the butter and salt into pieces and put on fire. When the water boils, quickly pour all the flour into the pan, mix it (better to do it with a hand mixer at low speed) and, constantly stirring with a long-handled spoon, hold on the fire until the dough forms a tight ball that easily separates from the pan walls (this will take 3-5 minutes). While stirring, cool the dough to room temperature and beat the eggs one by one, thoroughly whisking after each. Using two teaspoons or a pastry bag, put the dough on a baking tray: keep in mind that during baking it will increase 2-3 times. Put the oven in a preheated 190 degree oven for 30-35 minutes (do not try to open the oven - the eclairs will be blown off immediately).

While the eclairs are baked, prepare the cream. "The book about tasty and healthy food" recommends a custard based on the remains of dough and butter, but the taste of a classic brewed patissier with whipped cream will be much more delicious. First, let's cook the patissier: for this mix yolks with starch and two tablespoons of milk. The rest of the milk is poured into a saucepan, add sugar and vanilla extract, put on a fire and bring to a boil. In a thin trickle pour the boiling milk into the yolks, in parallel mixing with a whisk. Return the mixture to a saucepan and cook over medium heat until thick, stirring constantly. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally so that no film forms on the surface. Whip the cooled cream with sugar powder into a thick foam and mix them with the patisser by "folding" (bottom up, neatly, to keep the air texture).

Ready eclairs cool, cut from the side andFill with cream. Prepare the icing: for this, melt the chocolate with butter and cream (the easiest way to do it in a microwave) and mix thoroughly. Using a culinary brush, cover the eclairs with glaze and put it in the refrigerator for a couple of hours. If you prefer eclairs without glaze, just sprinkle the filled cakes with powdered sugar through a sieve - during the Soviet era this option was considered even more authentic.

Taken from here.

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